Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has always defined its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children are reluctant to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these stories and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
