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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the family totally astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble place earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary triumph.